Pro Grade Cosmetics:Prescription Required!!

Dec 30, 2014

Shelley W.

I don't even know where to begin on this one. First off I want to post to disclaimer of sorts...this post isn't intended to insult or make anyone feel bad about their makeup choices. If anything my goal is to simply educate you so you don't make costly purchases that may hurt your wallet or quite possibly your skin. So that being said...

I've been noticing an influx of beauties buying pro grade cosmetics. And when I say pro grade I'm not talking about makeup found at Sephora. I'm talking Kryolan, Camera Ready, RCMA, Graftobian. MUA professional grade products that you find in movie/television/stage artist rooms. In the right hands this stuff is awesome! It will hide every skin sin known to man while at the same time making you look like the Photoshop fairy laid down her wand above your head. In the wrong hands this stuff can age you, cause extreme havoc to your skin...just a hot mess.

Pro grade is far more pigmented than your standard cosmetics you find in stores. Its so pigmented that a little amount goes a very long way. A lot of it also contains a lot of not so skin friendly fillers to balance out that pigmentation and to ingredients to withstand the rigors of hot lighting and other not so nice filming environments so the makeup does not melt away on the user. My oldest child is a MUA artist and whenever she uses these products on a client she hands them a bag of mini samples of cleanser, toner and exfoliator to use at the end of the night. This stuff is a beast to remove...I know...I was her guinea pig and after many trial and errors she figured out the right cleansing ritual to remove this stuff. Overall pro grade cosmetics is something that you don't want to be using on a daily basis for the very reason of its pore clogging ingredients.

Another problem I see a problem in is application technique. This stuff doesn't come with instructions and sadly people turn to YT where incorrect steps are taught and then you have folks running around wearing these mistakes. Which goes back to pigmentation...you cannot lay it on thick. Even using the wrong brush can cause a lot of grief.

I truly believe that unless you're a MUA with extensive knowledge about color theory, techinque and formula these lines need to not even be in our collections.

Dec 30, 2014

Monica K.

I think this is a great post!

Dec 30, 2014

Bre H.

Very informative I love it thank you.

Dec 30, 2014

Nikelle B.

Thanks for sharing Shelley!

Dec 30, 2014

Kathryn R.

I very respectfully disagree just a little bit. Everything you say about pro grade lines is true, however the best way to learn is trial and error and I would hate for any woman to limit herself to certain brands instead of branching out and trying to achieve her full potential. Although I am a pro MUA, I still learned mostly through practice. Trial and error. I feel like women shouldn't place a limit on their abilities. If you want to experiment with pro grade brands, more power to you! Yes, it's important to be aware of all the ins and outs of pro grade brands and to be informed, but don't limit what you are capable of! Do some research, and do what you want to do! I guess I feel this way because I feel so blessed to have been taught by a celebrity MUA, and I'm so grateful that she showed me that I can do whatever I set out to do. I don't just apply makeup, I also teach lessons. I want every woman to feel like she can do anything she sets out to do. Again, educate yourself as much as possible, like the things Shelly said, but do what you want to do!

Dec 30, 2014

Shelley W.

@Kathryn...thank you responding. ;) I agree with you in regards to experimenting and having those trial and error moments. I have them on a daily basis and I embrace them but in the long scheme of things this stuff just isn't all that great for the skin for day to day use unless you are an actress or needing to be in front of the tv camera for a living. And not everyone can afford to see a skim specialist to counteract some of the negative effects pro products inflict on the skin. A lot of it isn't even oily girl friendly and don't get me started on the powders that are used. lol. I think beautiful looks can be achieved using the more mainstream products while pro items are best suited for special occasions.

Dec 30, 2014

Shelley W.

Exactly Sandy! And then people get upset when they start experiencing skin issues. The RMCA Unpowder is awesome but the more complex products like concealer and foundation...you couldn't pay me to use on a day to day basis. I've had my daughter apply this stuff on my face and my skin looked flawless in pictures and then I tried applying it by myself...there is a reason why pro MUA's exist...I looked a hot mess and I was using the right tools. Overall it just really saddens me when I see pro grade makeup misused and then beauties go off and make the same mistakes (in reference to YT).

Dec 31, 2014

Tina S.

Round of applause for Shelley for an intriging topic & Jacqueline such enlightening information on reading your comments I have learned a lot from you girlies thanks for a refreshing read. I had no knowledge of pro makeup n now I do. well if you go pro I would fake it until I made it by doing research especially before doing anything like a UT video.

Dec 31, 2014

Shelley W.

Aww thank you so much for your detailed response Jackie. As always you manage to educate us all. Thank you. ;)

Dec 31, 2014

Kathryn R.

Another great post, as always. Thank you for your expertise and your willingness to share it with us.  😀👍

Dec 31, 2014

Grace T.

This is a great post. Everyone has some good points and I love hearing thoughts and ideas from other make up pros. There is always something new to learn in this field.

Dec 31, 2014

Sadiya R.

Wow Jacqueline H. I am impressed, thank you for sharing this. I enjoy learning because I believe it is the way to improve my practice. It was very interesting to read :D.

Dec 31, 2014

Kathryn R.

Sandra I feel you. I made a similar post. Jaqueline made some really great points after and I remained half in and half out the whole idea. There's truth to it but I also didn't like the idea of limiting oneself. Read Jaquelines posts, they're super informative.

Dec 31, 2014

Jill K.

I feel like this might have a little to do with my Ben Nye banana powder post...I hope not, but I don't know. I fell into the hype and bought some and when I got it, I realized I couldn't use it for highlighting, like I wanted to so I sent it back. I posted pics on the forum and got some opinions that helped me decide it wasn't the right shade for me. I agree with Kathryn about practice and trial and error. Practice makes perfect. Don't a lot of MUA artists start by simply playing around with makeup and becoming better and better at it with practice?

Dec 31, 2014

Jill K.

But I wasn't aware that using that kind of makeup on a daily basis was bad for your skin. Good to know.

Dec 31, 2014

Maggie M.

😍 so interesting!! Great thread.

Dec 31, 2014

Janet B.

Where are you guys? In the UK we still have Max Factor in drugstores! Had no idea it was that good, definitely will be checking them out now ; any reccomendations?

Dec 31, 2014

Shelley W.

@Jill K...no it didn't have anything to do with your Ben Nye post. I posted my thoughts about what I've been seeing in general as I watch my daughter work on clients and overhearing their conversations and what my husband has encountered at his practice.

I'm not bashing people for experimenting with pro grade cosmetics but its disheartening when people just don't take the time to throughly research proper techinque or even bother to learn what ingredients they are putting on their skin. My husband has been seeing an influx of women coming in with all kinds of skin issues from using pro grade products. Insanely clogged pores resulting in severe cystic acne. Dry skin users experiencing further premature aging. Even other derms practicing in the same office is seeing more patients with bad reactions to these cosmetics. Its sad. And one patient of his went to some shady store to buy what she thought was a legit RMCA palette from a shop in NYC. It wasn't...it was a fake and he took time out his schedule to test it in his lab and lo and behold the stuff was loaded with lead. So not only are women not educating themselves and taking a hard look at this stuff but they are also buying it at questionable vendors.

And my daughter has a client who is a news reporter. She has been in front of the camera for 13 years. She is always saying how she just wants to wear her HD makeup even off the clock to cover up the sins that the stuff has caused her over constant wear.

I fully embrace experimentation and we all have to learn...but at the end of day the risks involved must be fully examined before diving in. And a lot of women sadly do not do research...hence the reason for my post. It wasn't to shame anyone or you and if you felt that I did I apologize.

Dec 31, 2014

Traci L.

Ooooo this was good , and something I miss around here , thank you for the information Shelley and Jacqueline very interesting,

Dec 31, 2014

Jill K.

I get what you're saying. Some of us, my self included, wouldn't have a clue unless someone told us. So basically pro grade products are nice, but on limited occasions and not for everyday use. Unless, of course, the ingredients check out okay :) I actually have some foundation powder that I made with kitchen spices and lavender abs vitamin E oil. You could eat the stuff if you wanted, although it probably wouldn't taste very good! It smells good though!

Dec 31, 2014

Shelley W.

@Jill...yep...and to add...techinque is tied into knowing what kind of formula one is working with. So if one doesn't know the compositions of what they are working with it can result in a not so lovely finished look and/or having a reaction to the ingredients. Some beauties don't have the patience for all that...instant gratification is what we're after...especially if we feel like nothing in the mass consumer side hasn't been working. There is one line out of France that formulates its pro makeup without all the junk that is found in the other lines but its so insanely priced but I hope that the rest of industry follows and infuse more heathier ingredients. And do you have a chemistry background? That foundation powder sounds yummy. ;)

Dec 31, 2014

Jill K.

Haha, no chemistry background! Just arrowroot starch, cocoa, cinnamon, bentonite clay, ginger, nutmeg, lavender and vitamin E oil :) I think each ingredient has its own good benefits. Covers pretty well too! My friend even made her own mascara with charcoal and beeswax. Fun to experiment with and if it saves me money and is all natural, I'm all for it!

Dec 31, 2014

Shelley W.

I've tried the charcoal and beeswax but I made the mistake of using charcoal that was treated with lighter fluid by the manufacturer...the emergency visit was not fun. I should've grabbed cosmetic grade charcoal. lol.

Dec 31, 2014

Jill K.

Oh my!

Dec 31, 2014

Shelley W.

If you are every feeling DIY moment coming on let me know and I can give you website links to online companies that sell skin safe ingredients. Thru that experience I learned that there are different types of charcoal based off type of use. You have cosmetic grade which is the stuff used for facial scrubs (Freemans Charcoal Facial Scrub is example) , medical charcoal used for pumping the stomach of someone who overindulged in alcohol and then you have industrial charcoal...stuff used for your bbq pits.